Joelle Thomson

Author, journalist, writer

Month: October 2016 (page 2 of 3)

Wine: NZ’s biggest solar powered business

A solar day at Yealands

The biggest solar powered business in New Zealand is Yealands’ Estate in Marlborough. 

It’s a stunner of a day when this fact is announced. You could even say it’s a solar day, as the cloudless blue sky and intense Southern Hemisphere sunshine bathe the vines in their bright light in the Awatere Valley, a sub-region of Marlborough with more grapes than Hawke’s Bay.

Winery founder, Peter Yealands is quietly spoken as he announces the company that he founded now has New Zealand’s largest solar panels.

The new panels generate 30% of the winery’s needs. This equates to 412 kilowatts of energy and is comparable to power supply for 85 houses a year. This equates to approximately a quarter more than the next largest solar power panels in the country at Sylvia Park, Auckland.

The Yealands property is made up of eight farms, which were purchased over seven years, then planted progressively in vines. All vines are north-south facing to maximise the sun exposure – the morning sun shines brightly on one side of the vines whilst the afternoon sun scorches the other side.

There is one exception. It is a small block which Yealands describes as ‘aspect planting’ where the rows are planted on such steep land that they follow the sharp slope of the land rather than being trained in another direction.

This is not an easy site. The land here on the coast has relatively high magnesium and sodium, both of which can burn roots of vines, which is exacerbated by the shallow top soils which are wind blown so that it takes a significant amount of added fertiliser to take care of the vine roots. Large compost heaps flank these windswept vineyards on this coastal property; on a good day, a vast number of tonnes of this is dispersed on the vines, saving up to about 20% of much needed water in this dry area. This (2016) is the third year running that the Awatere Valley has had a drought, making irrigation is an absolute necessity that is, fortunately, slightly reduced by the use of the compost.

PS: Marlborough now has about 24,000 hectare son vines planted, of which Yealands has 850 hectares of vineyard, with at least another 100 hectares of available land that could be planted in other areas.

PPS: On animal products used… Since 2014, no animal products have been used in Yealands’ wines and no fining has taken place. Instead, on Pinot Noir and some Sauvignon Blanc, a little potato protein is used for fining, which enables the proteins (aka floaty bits in the wine) to bind with it and then be filtered out – this creates clean and clear looking wines.

Musical vineyards

Find out more about the music played to the vines at Yealands Seaview Vineyard at

The new Yealands wines

2016 Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc RRP $22, 13% ABV

Restrained Sauvignon Blanc characters and minerally acidity are the flavours that winemaker Jeff Fyfe harnesses in this single vineyard (1000 hectares) wine, which is all about Sauvignon Blanc at its flintiest, freshest flavours – blackcurrant leaf, pineapple and passionfruit flavours rule this high acid, white with its pronounced white fruit flavours.

2016 Yealands Estate Pinot Gris Marlborough $ 13% ABV

Dry (4.5-5 grams residual sugar) with medium body and 20% barrel fermentation (treated the same as the Riesling – lees stirred) and  peachy fruit forward flavours.

2016 Yealands Estate Riesling Marlborough $22, 12% ABV

This is the first single vineyard Riesling made at Yealands Estate in four years and it was 100% barrel fermented in old French oak from two blocks on one vineyard site; one close to the sea (linear, lean, high acidity) and one from near to the winery (hand picked, destemmed, settled for 24 hours then moved into barrel). Lees stirring took place twice a week for 4.5 months until blending and bottling, with no fining. The vines were planted between 8-11 years ago. Some of the barrels were inoculated with yeast. The finished wine has 6 grams of residual sugar and 9 grams of acid.

The world of Riesling at Regional

Ask Marlborough winemaker Jeff Fyfe what turns his tastebuds on about Riesling and he responds: “It’s the whole ‘what the heck is this that makes it such an awesome drink for me. The fact that Riesling can be so many different things is what makes it such a great drink – it can be sparkling, dry, full bodied, light bodied, low alcohol, off dry, medium dry, medium sweet or luscious – which one is it? Well, I don’t mind as I like all the different ways it can taste great.”

This year, Fyfe made a Riesling along the lines of an old school, traditional European wine rather than a new wave New Zealand one – he fermented 100% of the grapes in oak – old oak, that is.

The wine is the first single vineyard Yealands Riesling in four years and was  100% barrel fermented in neutral old French oak from two blocks on one (extremely large) vineyard. The grapes come from two different areas of the same vineyard. One part of the vineyard is close to the sea (grapes with lean, high acidity) while the other is near to the winery (still close to the sea but not perched precipitously on the coast). All grapes for this wine were hand picked, then destemmed and settled for 24 hours being before moved into barrel for 4.5 months where they were stirred on lees (left overs after fermentation) twice a week until blending and bottling (with no fining). These grapes were planted progressively between 8 to 11 years ago and some of the barrels were inoculated with yeast whilst others were left to go through wild yeast fermentation in their own sweet time. Speaking of which, the wine tastes dry (due to its angular, youthfulness and naturally high acidity) but it is technically off dry since it contains 6 grams of residua sugar (RS) and that balancing 9 grams of acid.

“We didn’t want one wine to be way out of step with the others in our Yealands stable, so the style of the wines overall had to fit under our umbrella, which means fruit flavours  are there, but in this wine that’s not the primary focus,” explains Fyfe.

The wine

2016 Yealands Estate Riesling Marlborough $22, 12% ABV

A wine for the cellar – flavours are fresh, thanks to high acidity, which adds a very zesty, very fresh, very youthful aspect to the taste, while the fruit is in the background. It reminded me of a young Clare Valley Riesling such as Grosset Watervale Riesling – one of the great Southern Hemisphere expressions of this German grape variety. In its youth, this wine (the Grosset Watervale Riesling) can be extremely shy in aroma and flavour but after 10 years in the bottle, it’s a beautifully balanced, medium bodied white with notes of warm toast and lime zest.

PS: One of the most remarkable things about Riesling is… its ability to age, sometimes for decades (if storing conditions are favourable; cool, temperature stable, dark and all that jazz) and last week, at the World of Riesling tasting I hosted at Regional Wines & Spirits in Wellington, we saw an outstanding example of this in the 2005 Framingham Dry Riesling (small supplies of which are still available at Regional Wines for  $26).

World of Riesling top wines of the night

2011 Egon Muller Scharzhofberg Riesling $39.90

The wine of the night, which is remarkable, given the fact this is not even on the first rung of the complicated German Pradikat system of ranking quality (but let’s not go there right now). It is the off dry, ripe citrus, honey and peach aromas and the extraordinarily well balanced freshness (acidity, in other words) that give this Riesling the X-factor. It really stood out from the crowd for its lightness and intensity – a delicious paradox.

2015 Taylors St Andrews Single Vineyard Clare Valley Riesling $44.99

Altitude is the name of the game for this wine, which is made from grapes grown at 359 go 382 metres above sea level – relatively high from a vineyard with a prevailing southerly aspect – a good micro climate for the late ripening, cool climate loving Riesling grape. The intensity of flavour, freshness and balance of the acidity made it a stand out.

2008 Misha’s Vineyard Limelight Riesling – cellar stock

Thanks, Misha, for sending up this eight year bottle and sharing your first vintage of Central Otago Riesling, which put its most youthful foot forward; it’s intensely flavoursome with lime zest suggesting its cool climate origins, and it was one of my top wines of the night. It is firmly in the medium sweet category, in terms of flavour and residual sugar levels.

2012 Misha’s Vineyard Limelight Riesling Central Otago $27.35    

A relatively youthful Riesling with at least another 5 to 6 years up its sleeve, for those with the willpower to age this wine.

2014 Weingut Clemens Busch Marienberg Riesling $40   

Mosel Riesling from the steep Pündericher Marienburg, a 25 hectare vineyard that runs along a hillside which faces the village of Pünderich and has a south to south west aspect. The ripe citrus and stone fruit flavours that this wine gains from this vineyard site make it a consistent winner, exceptionally good value at this price for its rich, off dry style.

2015 Giesen Marlborough Riesling $16.99

As always, extraordinarily good value for money and with the potential to age for 4 to 5 years, possibly longer in cooler vintages.

2014 Albert Mann Riesling Alsace AC $33.40

A regional wine rather than one made with grapes from a single vineyard site, nevertheless, this biodynamic producer (Albert Mann) packs a powerful dry punch in this French Riesling, which is medium bodied, dry and has a long lemon-zest flavoursome finish.

2011 Spy Valley Envoy Riesling Marlborough $32.99

A big toasty wine from Marlborough, which benefits from a little time in old fuder barrels, which adds complexity and another string to the multifaceted Spy Valley white wine bow.

The wines above are barely the tip of the world’s (and New Zealand’s) long list of good, very good and outstanding quality Rieslings. And their prices do not suggest the level of quality that they deliver, let alone their proven track records of ageing well (particularly now that many are sealed with screw caps). 

There are many other New Zealand wines that I would like to have highlighted that are, in my view, among New Zealand’s finest white wines – some of these wines include: The Doctor’s Riesling from Marlborough, Mt Edward Drumlin Riesling, The Boneline Hellblock Riesling, The Boneline Dry Riesling, Pegasus Bay Riesling and Main Divide Riesling, The Escarpment Riesling, Ata Rangi Craighall Riesling, Nga Waka Riesling (arguably New Zealand’s best dry expression of this great grape), and many more.

The Boneline: small scale North Canterbury wines

The low down and high quality on the South Island’s Boneline wines…

She’s the owner, he’s the winemaker and this week they came to Wellington to unveil their newest wines from Boneline – one of the few New Zealand wineries that actually can lay claim to calling itself an estate – which means all of their wines are made from grapes grown on their own land. In this case, that land happens to be in North Canterbury, one of the windiest corners of the country for grapevines to call home, which can be a factor in reducing the yield of grapes per hectare – and raising the quality of wine at the same time.

Vic is one of the owners of The Boneline and Paul is the winemaker and we will keep things on a first name basis in this article because their focus was firmly on the wines, which taste pretty awesome.

The tasting they hosted with Wellington wine woman Jeannine Mccallum was at Loretta’s in Cuba Street – one of Wellington’s best places to eat (don’t even get me started on the delicious cauliflower with almonds).

The Boneline wines…

The Boneline began life in 2013 as the new lease of life for the brand previously known as Waipara West (now the label for exports from this winery).

The vineyard is planted on three terraces on the banks of the Waipara River, approximately 5 kilometres from Amberley township. There are three distinct soil types here, which can attribute different aspects to the taste of the wines. The slightly different altitude on each terrace may also play a factor in flavour.

Paul worked his first harvest this year, 2016, and talked about the defining factors of the region being its very dry climate (drought is a frequent issue) and also the sea breeze, which cools the region.

The name Boneline is a reference to the fossils that have been thrust up from the riverbed – there is a visual line in the river where the soils and stones change colour. All wines are made with grapes that are 100% grown on the winery’s own vineyards. No grapes are bought from other growers. Vines were planted there in 1989.

Here are my highlights of this Boneline tasting

2015 The Boneline Dry Riesling

Dry Riesling is the gateway for many to one of the world’s greatest quality but so frequently misunderstood wines – by using the word ‘dry’ on the label and by ensuring this wine lives up to its name, the Boneline team hope to harness a new following for this fresh, light bodied, vibrant refreshing wine. Think lime zest on speed… it’s delicious.

2015 The Boneline Riverbone Sauvignon Blanc

This is a rich, full bodied style of Sauvignon with flavours of green apple, fresh herbs and creamy flavours – lovers of French wine will recognise its Bordeauxesque style in its rich, oily feel in the mouth. This wine is made from four rows of grapes grown on the Waipara River banks in North Canterbury. All grapes were hand picked and whole bunch pressed straight to oak (approximately 30% new oak) with the creamy notes coming from the oak and lees stirring. Low crop levels and lots of hand work adds the bells and the very subtle whistles to this high quality Sauvignon Blanc.

2014 The Boneline Waipara Cabernet Franc

Described by its makers as ‘an everyday and lighter style of Cabernet Franc’, this wine is made with grapes grown on Claremont limestone soils  and it tastes ripe and smooth with big tannins and dark fruit flavours; it’s an approachable style to drink now rather than to age.

2014 The Boneline Waipara Waimanu Pinot Noir

Big full body, dry with high acidity – so far, so technical, but this Pinot Noir puts the South Island’s best foot forward for Pinot Noir with its red and dried fruit flavours, its freshness and its long finish – a stunner.

A parting shot

2014 The Hellblock Riesling – made from grapes grown on the bottom terrace close to the river, which enables the grapes there to develop noble rot, which shrivels them and reduces their moisture, leaving elevated levels of sweetness in the grapes’ natural sugars, so that this wine cruises in with 46 grams of residual sugar, putting it firmly in the ‘sweet’ category. Its high acidity (cool climates retain that) means it has the perception of a medium sweet wine with a lingering finish. Very seductive…

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