This column was first published in Capital magazine in January 2017.
Winemaker Ben Glover has hung up his winemaking boots to focus on the capital’s biggest ever wine gig this month
You could say Ben Glover has a knack for numbers. When asked how he got into winemaking, he describes a circuitous route, via a degree in economics, accounting and law, none of which are his forté. But while numbers may not normally be his strong suit, ticket sales to the capital’s sixth international Pinot Noir conference this month tell a rather different story.
Glover is the chairperson of the three day event and this year’s is the biggest ever to take place in the capital, due to higher ticket sales than ever before in the event’s history.
This year there will be over 700 people in attendance. Is there a change in who is coming and how they have been communicated to and sold tickets?
“Yes, there is. We have changed how we target who should come. For instance, for those working with wine, it’s no longer enough to just be a wine judge at a competition any more. You’ve got to be writing, working with or communicating about how wine fits with food or how it fits into everyday life, so that’s why we have a strong culinary element at the event,” says Glover, who was on the organizing board for the last Pinot Noir conference in Wellington, in 2013.
There was a strong food focus back then too. Ruth and Paul Pretty were at the helm of the culinary team and will be again this year, with guest chef appearances on each of the three days.
Wellingtonian Al Brown will make the first guest chef appearance on day one. He now resides in Auckland where he heads up Depot restaurant and bar, among other projects, in the city centre.
Another guest appearance spot will be occupied by one of the key speakers, the rock star Maynard Keenan; the lead singer and lyricist for the alternative metal bands, Tool, Puscifer and A Perfect Circle. And whilst he is a rock muso’ by day, he moonlights by growing grapes and making wine in the desert, having been a mover and shaker in the establishment of Arizona’s wine industry, where he makes wine from Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Barbera and Nebbiolo, among other grapes. His list of varietals appears to include every on-trend red grape but Pinot Noir, and his unconventional approach to wine was a strong drawcard to inviting him to attend the conference.
Movie star turned winemaker Sam Neill is another keynote speaker at Pinot Noir NZ 2017, alongside several Master of Wines, including the capital’s newest, Stephen Wong.
The biggest star of all – for wine lovers – is Jancis Robinson, who will attend the conference for the first time in its history. She was the world’s first journalist to become a Master of Wine and is also the editor of The Oxford Companion to Wine and the ground breaking encyclopedia, Wine Grapes (2012).
Stars and decadence aside, Glover says he wants people to use their grey matter to think about what is in their glass at this year’s Pinot Noir NZ conference.
“I want us to embrace our turangawaewae, to explore new ways to describe how we define greatness in a glass of wine. What’s great for one person may not be great for another, so it’s just stretching that whole thought process to think about where the wine comes from and how its flavours reveal its origins.”
The Marlborough born and bred winemaker finished a four year stint as chief winemaker there in November last year to devote most of his working hours to Pinot Noir NZ 2017, although (as winemakers do) he will also turn up the heat on his wine brand, Zephyr, which he began a decade ago. It has been a project of love while he has had full time winemaking work for others. He was the head winemaker at Wither Hills from 1998 to 2012, prior to working at Mud House, where his brother Jack remains as the general manager.
Today, the name Glover is akin to wine royalty in Marlborough but growing up in the region was hard work on the family farm and it instilled a strong work ethic in him. Not least because he was regularly up at 4.30am to milk cows. Then things changed in Marlborough.
“It seemed all of a sudden that the dairy farm was gone, and we were weeding young vines.
“It was really tough and foreign in those first formative years. The growing of a plant as opposed to feeding and milking an animal was outside of our experience. We knew how to shift irrigation, how to milk cows at 4.30am and again in the afternoon. We knew the feeding, carting and cutting of hay whereas the grape growing side of things initially was bloody tough, even though we’d grown a lot of garlic, corn and peas through the late ‘80s,” he says.
One of the biggest shocks to the family was in realizing that they had just one crop a year from which to make wine.
“My father is a fairly pedantic farmer, as all the good grape growers tended to be. He was hands on and took a long term view, so it was a pretty good way to learn how to get along in life.”
Winemaking is often like that too, says Glover.
“It takes a long time to trust people when you’re making wine because you have a certain view on how you think a wine should be and a lot of that is learning how to let go and knowing when to reign it back in.”
On the future of Pinot Noir in New Zealand, Glover sees it taking a different road to Sauvignon Blanc because by volume it’s the country’s second biggest wine but because of what it is (an oak matured red), it’s probably the most alluring.
“We know that a lot of our Pinot Noir always over delivers, even at low price points, especially compared to its counterparts from many other places in the world where the wines are the same price.”
He suggests that vine age, winemaker age and vineyard sites are now all coming together to provide an X-factor in New Zealand.
“We know how to get the most out of the land while being sympathetic to it. I think we’re lucky in having long summers that enable us to provide door opening Pinot Noirs that taste good. We always hold up France and its premier cru and grand cru wines as the holy grail but they are only 3-5% of what they make.
“We certainly over deliver for the every day wines we make from Pinot Noir compared to the French, and we are definitely making a lot of wine at a high quality-low price ratio.”
When Glover talks about having hung up his winemaking boots in November last year, he’s talking about a very temporary state of affairs.
The Zephyr wine brand that he and his family created 10 years ago has been simmering slowly on the back burner, so now is a good time to turn up the heat on the brand and start driving its recognition and sales. As any wine drinker would expect of a Marlborough wine brand, Sauvignon Blanc is the biggest, in production terms, but Gewurztraminer is closest to the hearts of the Glover family, as are Riesling and Chardonnay. “We have to keep people drinking Riesling and this trio of whites all highlight the strong quality potential of the South Island for grapes and wines other than Sauvignon Blanc.”
Pinot Noir 2017 is on in Wellington from Tuesday 29 January to Thursday 2 February 2017. www.pinotnz.co.nz
Brown returns to Welly
Wellingtonian Al Brown makes a return to the capital as a guest chef at the city’s biggest ever wine conference, Pinot Noir NZ 2017, which kicks off on 31 January and runs to 2 February. Brown now heads up the Auckland eateries Depot and Federal Delicatessen, as well as the Montreal-style bagel factories Best Ugly Bagels (which opened in the capital this year). He will join Ruth Pretty and her catering team followed by fellow foodies Graham Brown and Josh Emett, who will assist with food during the Pinot event.