Its name is French for naturally sweet but there is plenty that is man made about vin doux naturel wines, which have their fermentation stopped by a process called mutage.

This is the interruption of the fermentation by adding alcohol to wine when it is only part-way through its transformation from juice and grape sugars to wine and alcohol. The result is an intensely aromatic fortified wine, in this case to 17.5% ABV.

To the best of my knowledge, this is the first one ever to be produced in New Zealand and it is made by maverick North Cantabrian winemaker Guy Porter, whose whites push all sorts of tasty boundaries, including a flor yeast-influenced nutty dry white and, now, this sensation. He also makes a VDN from a blend of Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Riesling but this is my fave because I enjoy the balance of crisp acidity that Sauvignon Blanc offers in this wine:

2016 Bellbird Spring Mute L’Alouette North Canterbury

This is one bottle to stash, to enjoy, to marvel at – “wow” was my reaction when poured some at an impromptu tasting last week in Auckland. This fortified Sauvignon Blanc is modelled on southern French vin doux naturels and offers a beautiful new take on the Sauvignon Blanc theme from the thoughtful winemaking of Guy Porter at Bellbird Spring, one of the smallest wineries in New Zealand – and a name to beat a track to for anyone looking for delicious whites and tasty Pinot Noirs.