Desert island drinks – new 2019 Martinborough Pinot Noirs

What would you take to a desert island? Music’s got to be high on the list for many of us but the lack of power on a desert island means the sounds would only last as long as the phone does and when that dies, the music goes with it. Wine, on the other hand, might last a tad longer, especially if it’s possible to take more than one bottle. These new 2019 Pinot Noirs have forced me to concede that I’d give up my favourite sounds for a glass of any of these great wines.

Vintage 2019

In my view, the 2019 vintage is one of the best yet for New Zealand Pinot Noir. The absolute best? I’ll hold off on making that strong a declaration but I wouldn’t be surprised, given the uniformly high quality from Martinborough, Marlborough, North Canterbury and Central Otago.
I can’t think of such a uniformly deep and delicious year for Pinot Noirs from top producers and it’s still early days.

This week’s desert island wines

Kupe, Te Rehua and Escarpment Vineyard Pinot Noir are all among the top tier of New Zealand Pinot Noirs, all produced by The Escarpment Vineyard in Martinborough. They are usually joined by another single vineyard wine called Kiwa but there was none made in 2019.

19.5/20
2019 Escarpment Martinborough Kupe $115

Talk about an incredible wine. Savoury, full bodied and smooth; an iron first in a velvet glove. This absolute stunner of a Pinot Noir is the pinnacle of the Escarpment Pinots and it’s made from one of the smallest vineyards in Martinborough, Kupe, which was planted in 1999 at high density of 6,600 vines per hectare. A smaller than usual crop in 2019 which fermented in wooden French cuvees, hand plunged and aged for 18 months in French oak barriques, 50% of which were new – a fairly hefty percentage but talk about handling it well.
Keep or drink now. Superlative in every way. A great Pinot Noir.

18.5/20

2019 Escarpment Te Rehua $85

Te Rehua is typically the weightiest, most earthy and savoury Pinot Noir in the Escarpment range, made from a small vineyard in the village rather than out at the winery in Te Muna Valley. This is the best Te Rehua that I’ve ever tasted. big, rich, dark and a keeper – one for the cellar or pour into your favourite large glass. It’s worth buying a big glass purely for the deliciousness of drinking this wine in it.

2019 Escarpment Martinborough Pinot Noir $49

Made from grapes grown on Te Muna Road, Martinborough, using 50% whole bunches in the ferment to give structure and boy does it work. Here’s a dark, dry, tannic Pinot with power to burn and softness from the 12 months aging in French oak. Yes, it’s not cheap. None of the Escarpment’s top wines are but this is a wine to wow you, your friends, your lover and anyone else important in your life.

www.escarpment.co.nz

Paper Nautilus new release

There’s nothing like a massive writing deadline to put paid to nearly everything else in life and with the deadline looming faster than bears thinking about, I am extremely focussed on creating a good read and obsessively researching to ensure the facts are on the nail as well. The new project will be revealed in the fullness of time and in the meantime, here is last week’s blog, intended to be published on Friday but with a deadline hanging over me like a dark cloud, well, sorry, it’s taken a while but good things are worth the wait.

And with that thought in mind, the 2020 Paper Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc is a good thing. It’s named after the Paper Nautilus, which is said to be a rare sea creature which occasionally washes up on secluded beaches around the Marlborough Sounds. An apt image then for the distant cousin of the Nautilus which is the logo of this well known winery.

Wine of the week

18.5/20

2020 Paper Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc $35

Dry, fresh and medium bodied, the Paper Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc is a refreshingly different take on the well worn Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc theme and tastes of smooth, lightly creamy notes with a touch of fresh lemon zest on the finish. Like its sea creature cousin, The 2020 Paper Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc is something of a rarity too since only 300 cases are made from hand picked grapes which are fermented in large old oak barrels and at a warmer temperature than is typical for Sauvignon. This is to de accentuate the overt fruitiness of Sauvignon’s tropical flavours. It’s made from grapes grown on the oldest vineyard owned by Nautilus Estate Wines at Renwick in the Wairau Valley.

This is the fifth release of The Paper Nautilus.

The Chenin mystery, a wine of the week

Joelle Thomson’s weekly column is published on Fridays.

The decline of Chenin in New Zealand remains a mystery
11 June 2021

South African wines made headlines in one of the most respected newspapers in the world this year because of a relatively obscure grape variety, Chenin Blanc, which can hold its own with the finest white wines, wrote UK critic Jancis Robinson MW in the Financial Times last month. It will come as good news to South Africa’s winemakers whose industry has had it tough in the past 12 months due to three total bans on the sale of alcohol since the Covid pandemic began.┬áIt could also bode well for New Zealand winemakers looking for a segue from Sauvignon Blanc.

Wine of the week

18.5/20
2018 Astrolabe Wrekin Chenin Blanc $32

Another deliciously succulent Chenin Blanc from winemaker Simon Waghorn, who fermented this wine in a combination of oak and stainless steel to add complexity and roundness but retain fruit freshness. Wild yeasts were used in this wine’s fermentation which can accentuate a more diverse range of flavours in wines. This is all about fresh flavours of lemon with a hint of grapefruit, held together in a dry style with a medium body and great long finish, thanks to the acidity, which makes every mouthful taste zingy – and will also see this wine through to a ripe old age. Acid is a great preserver. A delicious Astrolabe Chenin, as always.

It’s always seemed unusual to me that Chenin Blanc produced in New Zealand tastes so fresh and ages so well but has declined in production over the past 20 years from 1041 hectares nationwide in 2001 to 79 hectares in 2010 to nothing mentioned today, which is code for unimportant and barely any left. The last time that New Zealand Winegrowers reported an actual figure was in 2016 when there were 24 hectares of it left. Today Chenin Blanc is lumped in with the ‘other varieties’ which total 395 grapes and include some unpromising interlopers as well as this great white.

Sad. It does make me sad because the quality of good Kiwi Chenin Blanc continues to rise, as a new wine from an old winery showed a group I was doing staff training with this week at Wellington’s biggest independent wine store, Regional Wines & Spirits.

One of the wines I showed the tasters (which was presented blind, alongside another dry white), was my wine of the week, above, the 2018 Astrolabe Wrekin Chenin Blanc, whose maker says that Chenin flourishes in the New Zealand climate. Winemaker Simon Waghorn makes this wine from grapes wine was grown on a clay slope on the Wrekin Vineyard in Marlborough’s Southern Valleys. This vineyard is in conversion to organic certification with BioGro New Zealand. All the grapes are hand picked, fermented with wild yeasts, partially in barrel, partially in stainless steel to retain fruit freshness. “I love Chenin Blanc because of its crisp acidity and ability to age…” says Waghorn.
I’ll echo those sentiments. If only we had more, sob sob. It really does seem a shame, especially when so many winemakers talk about finding an interesting alternative and dive deep down the pathway of even more obscure, harder to pronounce varieties such as Gruner Veltliner, Viognier and Arneis but won’t venture down a path with a proven track record of greatness, namely, Chenin Blanc. It’s not that those other whites will not do well in this country. Some will. Some won’t. But Chenin Blanc is one of the greatest whites in the world in terms of its vibrant personality and ability to age for decades and its natural tendency to produce relatively large crops. This means it is easier to make money from than, say, Viognier or Gewurztraminer, which are both tricky to grow and harder to pronounce, making both a challenge to sell. Chenin Blanc is easy to pronounce and even easier to understand because it is nearly always dry and rarely has new oak which keeps its price down. Despite the small volumes, there are many good and some outstanding ones in good vintages, such as Chenins from Forrest Estate, Mount Edward, Easthope Family Winemakers, Margrain Vineyard and, best known of all, The Millton Vineyard.

The quality is always high and the prices never are. The decline of Chenin in New Zealand remains a mystery.

Find out more about South African Chenin Blanc at www.chenin.co.za