Just how many Pinot Noirs are made in New Zealand today?

If the ever expanding lineup crossing my tasting table is anything to go by, there appears to be no ceiling - either in style or sheer volume - on the number of Pinot Noirs being produced across Aotearoa New Zealand today.

Among the latest to impress is a standout from Takapoto Estate, with the Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir leading the charge. Once considered a marginal (read: cold) corridor connecting Central Otago’s warmer Cromwell Basin with the majesty of Queenstown, the Gibbston Valley now appears to be reaping the unexpected rewards of climate change, if the 2019 Takapoto Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir is anything to go by. But don't take my word for it. My notes below highlight the significant differences between this trio of wines, which were sent to me to taste last week and which I have worked through with a winemaking friend whose views formed similar thoughts to my own; sight unseen - that is, he did not see the wines while tasting them.

My reviews of Takapoto Estate Pinot Noirs

18.5/20
2019 Takapoto Estate Gibbston Single Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir RRP $80

The best of this new bunch from Takapoto is, undoubtedly, the Gibbston Valley. That once chilly corridor connecting Central Otago's well known Cromwell basin area at the warmer end with the majesty of Queenstown at the other is, well, seems to be benefiting from climate change - if this wine is anything to go by. Its appealing aromas are an invitation to enjoy a wine that has a fabulous fresh framework around an earthy core of complex flavours, finishing on a black cherry note. It drinks well now, clearly, and can age further - for four to five years. It was made with hand picked, 100% destemmed, wild fermented grapes grown on Brennan Vineyard in Gibbston, the finished wine was matured in French oak.

18/20
2022 Takapoto Estate ‘The Blend’ Central Otago Pinot Noir – RRP $45
A thoughtful blend of grapes from two areas in Central Otago; Bannockburn’s Legend Terrace with 72% and the cooler-climate Brennan Vineyard in Gibbston with 28%. All grapes were destemmed and wild fermented, with an extended maceration of seven weeks on skins before pressing. The result is a finely tuned expression of Central Otago Pinot Noir with bright fruit forward aromas underpinned by a savoury core mid palate and a lingering fresh finish.

17.5/20
2017 Takapoto Estate Bannockburn Single Vineyard Pinot Noir – RRP $80
Sourced from vines planted above the iconic Felton Road at Legend Terrace, this is a Bannockburn Pinot Noir made with wild fermentation and now with a pronounced tertiary flavour profile - earthy aged flavours are to the fore and fruit is tucked in the background with notes of wild cherries and wood spice. It drinks well and is best enjoyed now - or soon.