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Reflections from a life in progress - and what's in my wine glass

Best (Italian) wines of the week 2026

Anyone who has read Birdsong might be interested in the latest offering from Sebastian Faulks, whose reluctancy to write an autobiography might just be the reason that his is such a good read. Fires Which Burned Brightly was published last year and is a compelling blend of poignant post-World War II anecdotes, interwoven with spicy takes on his life as a writer from Fleetstreet journalist in the 1970s to being an author now. An excellent section is devoted to wine, which he adores and pays the same literary respect to, as he does his other great passion - words. Faulks is an excellent writer. He conjures up the taste of his life from the first page, on which cold mutton is mentioned for the first (but nowhere near the last) time. This book is a cohesive read, held together by the power of great writing and the notion that variety is a spice of life. The wide ranging subject matter reminded me this week of the world's most diverse winemaking country, Italy. The following five wines are all made from Italian grape varieties. Most of these are not household names and, yet, they have the suppleness that wine lovers search for in red wine often in vain. It's precisely the silky, smooth mouthful and complex layers of flavour in these wines that makes this hit such high notes with yours truly. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have.

Affordable Med red

2022 Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria RRP $38.99

The name Cerasuolo explains the cherry-like aromas and fresh fruity taste of the Frappato grape that is blended with Nero D'Avola in this full bodied, appealingly fresh, lithe and silky red wine from Sicily. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is the only DOCG (the highest legal wine designation) in Sicily and blends such as this one show why with its appealing aromas and complex layers of flavour. It drinks well now and can age, evolving superbly for 10+ years. 
Find out more here.

Surprising Sangiovese

17.5/20
2023 Wine Basket Sangiovese RRP $75 (approximately)

This beautifully presented Australian 'wine basket' pays homage to the traditional Chianti fiasco, only it has the added bonus of being outstandingly fresh in flavour with aromas of dark cherry, ripe blueberries with a twist of tangy red plums. It's medium bodied, fruity and fresh with complex spicy notes adding interest to every sip. It's available in packs of four or as single bottles from specialist wine stores. 
Find out more here.

Sicilian mountain slopes

17.5/20
2021 Fumu Etna Rosso RRP $46.99

Born from the black volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, Fumu Etna Rosso carries the quiet drama of its gritty home soils. It's made from Etna's two famous red grapes - Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappucio. Pale in colour with a light ruby hue, its  aromas are all about red berries, sour cherry and subtle spice, balanced by firm smooth flavours and a freshness that belies its four years of age. If you're looking for a complex, refreshing red that offers a deliciously different taste, here it is. 
Find out more here

Mountains and the Mediterranean

18.5/20
2020 Ricossa Barolo DOCG RRP $59.99

Ricossa’s Barolo opens like a great book with compelling flavours of deep spice, warm fruit steeped in well integrated woody aromas. Its berries, cherries and floral aromas are interwoven with darker, earthbound notes of licorice, cocoa and leather. Powerful and refined, it has an impressive structure with savoury depth and dignity - this is a great red at an affordable price, offering a glimpse into Italy's finest. 
Find out more here

Spicy southern red

2021 Cos Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico DOCG RRP $62.99

Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s lone DOCG jewel, is a marriage of Nero d’Avola and Frappato—two grapes that, together, tell a story of the expressive dark, brooding fruit flavours of Nero d’Avola with the lifted fresh light fruit of Frappato. Supple, fresh and intriguing in taste with layers of flavour that change as the wine warms in the glass. 
Find out more and buy Cos Cerasuolo here.