What has Pinot Noir revealed over the past two decades?
If Pinot Noir seems to have risen from zero to hero over the past few decades, it has - almost - but it's not only volume that has grown, it's also diversity. This year, winemaker Helen Masters marks her 20th vintage at Ata Rangi with the release of (among other wines) four Pinot Noirs from a year that was excellent for quality and a massive relief for winemakers following challenging years in 2022 and 2023. The latter proved to be so challenging that Masters didn't make the flagship Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, pressing the grapes into Crimson Pinot Noir instead.
This year, it's a different story. Four new 2024 Ata Rangi Pinot Noirs were officially launched on 7 July and include three single vineyard wines in the range. "We like them to be in bottle for a year and these were bottled in about September 2025 so we’re moving forward a little bit."
These Pinots represent a diverse range of styles made from vineyards that are, mostly situated close to each other, around the village of Martinborough. The exception is Ata Rangi Masters Pinot Noir which is five kilometres south of Martinborough.
If you have ever wondered how different a Pinot Noir can taste when it comes from a site that’s just a few hundred metres away - or a few kilometres down the road - here's a chance to find out in the glass. Pinot Noir is known for being pretty sensitive to climatic shifts in temperature, rainfall and wind. Its framework comes from balancing fresh vibrancy (derived from natural acidity in grapes) with structural depth and delicate fruit aromas. Ironically, while Pinot is not known for being a strongly tannic grape variety, the best Pinots are often held together by higher tannins due to favourable weather conditions. The 2024 vintage is just such a year and was characterised by smaller grapes and lower crop levels than usual, which brings structure to these wines. Impressive now, the four new Ata Rangi Pinot Noirs are intended to be consumed with thought (as the Italians would say, they are 'vino contemplazione' - wines to contemplate).
Each of the four new 2024 Ata Rangi Pinot Noirs is made to express the structural integrity of an excellent season, combined with a philosophy of taking time to allow these wines to unfold their finest flavours.
Like most winemakers, Masters has been busy on the road to officially release these wines to those who serve, sell and distribute them. It’s the third time she has made three single vineyard Ata Rangi Pinot Noirs, releasing them alongside the flagship Ata Rangi Pinot (a blend of vineyards).
The 2024 vintage also marks the first vintage for assistant winemaker Katie Cameron at Ata Rangi. It was a season where the grapes arrived with such purity of flavour that, as Masters says, “It wasn’t about having to make the wines at all. It’s about letting the grapes and wines speak for themselves.”
Wines of the week
2024 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir RRP $90
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir is the flagship wine of the four and as such, it has flown the flag for both this winery and for Martinborough Pinot Noir from the early days of New Zealand's young wine industry. It's a blend of grapes grown on vineyards at the winery and nearby, expressing immediate charm - silky red fruit, subtly integrated spice and cedar aromas - with firm smooth tannins framing the wine. It's the most drink‑now of the new quartet with the structure to age too.
2024 Ata Rangi Kotinga Pinot Noir RRP $125
Kotinga is the name of the stony vineyard on Puruatanga Road that's home to the grapes in this exceptionally fragrant Pinot Noir. Impressively structured, it was made with 40% whole bunch fermentation which brings lifted aromatic complexity to this wine with raspberries, a dusting of fresh spice and an excellent framework of subtle power.
2024 Ata Rangi Masters Pinot Noir RRP $125
Ata Rangi Masters Pinot Noir puts its most floral foot forward in a boldly structured wine made from grapes grown on clay soils and a bold 70% whole‑bunch ferment, which winemaker Helen Masters sees as preserving elegance. Dark fruit layers unfold on the palate, landing in that sweet spot where power meets prettiness. Delicious.
2024 Ata Rangi McCrone Pinot Noir RRP $125
McCrone Pinot Noir has a lithe structure and solid authority that carries its dark‑fruited, structured and impressively layered character to a silky textural finish. Whole‑bunch character lifts aromatic appeal in this full powerful wine. But don't take my word for it. Winemaker Helen Masters has comprehensive notes and technical information on the Ata Rangi website, where you can also purchase these wines, individually or as a selection.
There are 5,119 hectares planted across Aotearoa New Zealand this year (2026) which is a rise from 138 hectares recorded in 1989. Statistics from New Zealand Winegrowers, the official wine industry organisation in this country.
