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Vintage reflections: Hugh Crichton, 2024, Elephant Hill

Elephant Hill's finest foot forward

It’s not every day - or year, as the case may be - that harvest unfolds under warm, dry weather conditions, allowing picking decisions to be based entirely on flavour development, phenolic ripeness, acidity and overall balance. But... here we go with the new 2024 releases beginning to pour out of wineries on New Zealand’s east coast regions and what a stellar vintage it is. Not to wax too lyrical but it was also a relief for both winemakers and wine drinkers that 2024 came along following two difficult years.

Chardonnay and Syrah were among the standout performers in 2024 in vineyards farmed by Elephant Hill winery in Hawke’s Bay, both wines showing the structure and balance that will reward those who care to take the time to cellar their wines - in as dark and temperature-stable as conditions allow. Perfect cellar conditions? Do they even exist? It’s always a gamble but these are wines that will absolutely reward the effort to cellar.

Elephant Hill winemaker Hugh Crichton sent me his 2024 releases last month and as I work through them, the wine that impresses the most - so far - is the 2024 Elephant Hill Stone Syrah; a co-ferment with a little Viognier.

“I particularly enjoyed our work with co-fermented Viognier and Syrah. At our Sea Vineyard, the later-ripening Viognier often reaches maturity at a similar time to fruit from our warmer inland Syrah sites, creating an ideal opportunity for co-fermentation and adding aromatic lift, texture and complexity to the finished wines,” says Crichton.

He also notes that the 2024 vintage was exceptional across the board in Hawke’s Bay, delivering reliable growing conditions throughout the season. Slightly cooler temperatures during flowering naturally reduced yields, which, for quality-focused growers, proved beneficial, bringing flavour and intensity to the resulting grapes at harvest.

He also extended the maceration time on skins while adopting a gentler, less extractive approach in the winery. Both of these measures bring integrated tannins to the Stone Syrah (and, says Crichton, to the winery’s classic Bordeaux varieties), creating wines with harmony and refinement.

After the incredibly challenging years of 2022 and 2023 (the year of cyclonic devastation), Hawke’s Bay winemakers are enjoying the three consecutive high quality vintages of 2024, 2025 and 2026.

As a wine writer who lives on the east coast of New Zealand, I can absolutely attest to the high quality in the past three years. The wines from this trio of high quality vintages are mostly still to be released but early signs show exceptional quality - at international wine competitions and right here in my own glass in Aotearoa New Zealand.

The 2024 Elephant Hill Stone Syrah is a compelling expression of an outstanding season and a wine destined to reward patience in the cellar.

Wine of the Week

2024 Elephant Hill Stone Syrah RRP $65

Winemaker Hugh Crichton has crafted an impressively polished Syrah that combines richness and concentration that speaks eloquently of an exceptional season in Hawke's Bay's 2024 vintage. This wine is a blend of 96.2% Syrah and 3.8% Viognier, both co-fermented to bring a seamless integration of flavour with aromas of dark plum, blackberry and exotic spice, all leading into a palate layered with black fruits, subtle hints of pepper, cedar and savoury notes. Maturation for 18 months in French oak, 45% new, adds depth and structure without overshadowing the fruit. A further ten months resting on light lees in tank before bottling brings a seamless texture and impressive complexity.