Folding Hill part 2 - Orchard Block and Chardonnay
There's no shortage of Northern Hemisphere-inspired names in wine regions in the deep south of New Zealand (or in Australia, for that matter). Bannockburn and Bendigo top the list but then there's all the 'burns' - Lowburn, Parkburn and Northburn are among the many; each one of them bringing distinctive layers to the story of sun, aspect, slopes, soils and, ultimately, to the taste of the wines from these dramatic slopes.
This is all about Central Otago, specifically Bendigo, an area of sun-drenched slopes, dramatic schist soils and a track record for producing some of Central Otago's most powerful and ageworthy Pinot Noirs. It's a subregion that tends to make a strong impression. For Folding Hill, however, the story has been about the quiet and, at times, remote refinement of a single block of Pinot Noir, which is also now planted to a small portion of Chardonnay.
Folding Hill is a family-owned brand and the family who own it were stuck, inadvertently, in another remote part of the Northern Hemisphere when Covid struck. Tim and Nicki Kerruish (and their now grown children) have since home and brought their winemaking on-site, marking the next stage (and next generation) of the journey.
The 2023 Orchard Block Pinot Noir captures this moment of evolution.
The Orchard Block Pinot Noir was first produced in 2009 from a small portion of the Bendigo vineyard and has forged its place as the estate's signature Pinot Noir, although, as I wrote a couple of weeks ago, the gateway to this brand is the significantly lower priced Ballasalla Pinot Noir, which offers a superb glimpse into great Pinot Noir for around RRP $35.So, to the top wine of this small estate.
This latest release marks a changing of the guard with Matthew Kerruish (son of Tim and Nicki) now leading the winemaking after gaining experience in Burgundy. He was recently named Central Otago Young Viticulturist of the Year. Aside from the idyllic quiet beauty of Folding Hill's vineyard site, the quartz-laden land and the majesty of Central Otago, the treasures from this small vineyard make it hard to think of a better place to learn viticulture. And that translates into this wine.
2023 Folding Hill Orchard Block Pinot Noir RRP $70
There's an effortless confidence to this wine. Made from a portion of Folding Hill Vineyard in Bendigo, it was all hand harvested, 100% destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured for 18 months in French oak, 30% new.
Dark cherry, blackberry and plum lead the aromas, followed by layers of wild thyme and subtle spice. The hallmark Bendigo schist character emerges beneath the fruit, lending a savoury edge which has always shone through in Folding Hill Pinot Noirs.
The palate is concentrated andtextured, combining depth and freshness with impressive ease, while capturing the character of Bendigo and the growing confidence of Folding Hill's winemaking.
There is also a 2024 Folding Hill Chardonnay - made in small volumes, this wine unfolds with time open and decanting, revealing layers of smooth creamy texture and citrus flavour notes while retaining a strong hallmark of cool climate bright acidity - giving the wine a lightness on the mid palate followed by a long finish.
