Alexandra and Pisa combine in two new releases, both 'devilishly' good value from Rockburn in Central Otago.
How easy is it to find a Pinot Noir for less than $30 NZ (or the equivalent of approximately UK 15 pounds or Australian $35)?
There are plenty of Pinots around at that price but how many put forward a compelling case for authentic Pinot Noir (or Gris) flavour, let alone a quality-price ratio that works at a time when prices of pretty much everything we look at seem to keep on rising and rising?
There are few that make the grade. Here is one that I have long admired, not only for its name but also for the quality of the wines made under the brand.
It is the Devil’s Staircase wines, which take their name from the dramatic stretch of road that clings to the shores of Lake Wakatipu between Queenstown and Kingston. The winding route, carved into steep hillsides above the lake, is one of Central Otago’s many remarkable landmarks and provides an apt name for wines that combine accessibility with great value for money - and, more importantly, good flavour.
Rockburn was established in 1991 and has since carved out a reputation as one of the region’s top tier wineries, producing everything from age worthy single-vineyard Pinot Noir to an impressive Fumé Blanc at a time when that style has become increasingly rare, though not as rare, perhaps, as a good Pinot Noir at this price point... Something we are all looking for and very occasionally finding.
Here are my reviews.
17.5/20
2026 Devil’s Staircase Pinot Gris, Central Otago ($26)
This newly released Pinot Gris is a reminder that freshness, flavour and value can come together, as they do this attractive aromatic wine. Ripe pear, white peach and nectarine aromas are underpinned by vibrant acidity that provides both energy and length. A subtle textural richness adds weight to this impressive Pinot Gris - it has wide appeal and a touch of complexity.
17.5/20
2026 Devil’s Staircase Pinot Noir, Central Otago ($30)
A light bodied and approachable expression of Central Otago Pinot Noir, this wine emphasises purity of fruit over power. Bright red cherry, raspberry and plum notes lead the way, supported by gentle spice and smooth tannins. Juicy, vibrant and refreshingly crunchy on the finish, it captures the freshness that makes the region’s Pinot Noir so appealing. Serve lightly chilled to highlight its lively fruit. At $30, this young, light bodied Pinot Noir hints at complexity in each refreshing sip.
rockburn.co.nz
