One of Central Otago's top Pinot Noir producers is entering a new chapter with a second generation taking over the winemaking at Folding Hill in Bendigo.
This small family-owned wine brand has forged a reputation for distinctive, weighty Pinot Noirs made entirely from its own vineyard, largely avoiding the spotlight for most of its two decade history.
Now the winery is turning a new page with a new winemaking facility onsite and the growing involvement of the next generation stepping up to lead the wines into the next part of their journey. These significant steps forward follow the return of the Kerruish family (co-founders but now sole owners of Folding Hill) to New Zealand after Covid disrupted life overseas.
Bendigo is one of Central Otago's most compelling sub-regions and is home to sloping, sunny soils, an arid climate and often harsh continental temperature swings between summer and winter. These conditions combine to create wines of structure, concentration and longevity.
For Folding Hill, the story has always centred on a single site. Pinot Noir is the story of that site, with a more recent but modest planting of Chardonnay.
These latest wine releases were made by winemaker Dean Shaw at Central Otago Wine Company. From 2026 onwards, however, second-generation family member Matthew Kerruish, son of Tim and Nicki, will lead the winemaking programme after gaining experience in Burgundy. Recently named Central Otago Young Viticulturist of the Year, he returns to the family owned Folding Hill Vineyard, which offers an ideal environment in which to hone his winemaking, bringing it entirely into the family.
18.5/20
2023 Folding Hill Orchard Block Pinot Noir RRP $70
There's an effortless confidence to this wine. Made from a select portion of the Folding Hill vineyard in Bendigo, it was hand harvested, fully destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured for 18 months in French oak, 30% new, but so beautifully integrated that it sits seamlessly in this young wine. Bold aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and plum lead the spectrum of flavour, followed by layers of wild thyme and subtle spice.
The palate is concentrated, textured and finely balanced, combining depth and freshness with impressive ease.
18.5/20
2023 Folding Hill Pinot Noir RRP $48
The vines for this wine were planted in 2003 on free-draining Bendigo gravels interspersed with patches of clay and are now 22 years old. Six Pinot Noir clones contribute to the complex layers of flavour and textures highlighted in this wine, while full destemming and indigenous yeast fermentation allow the vineyard character to take centre stage.
Made by Dean Shaw at Central Otago Wine Company, the wine spent 11 months in barrel with a restrained 10% new oak. The result is lithe, silky and expressive with fruit purity and site expression highlighting the depth of Central Otago Pinot Noir character.
17.5/20
2024 Folding Hill Chardonnay RRP $34-$40
Produced in very small volumes, this Chardonnay rewards both time in the glass and decanting. Layers of creamy texture and citrus-driven flavour unfold, along with bright, cool-climate acidity that defines Central Otago Chardonnay.
That freshness lends lightness and energy through the mid-palate before carrying the wine to a long, poised finish.
17.5/20
2024 Ballasalla Pinot Noir RRP $28.99 to $35
As Folding Hill's 'second' label, Ballasalla has always offered exceptional depth of flavour - 'exceptional' because it is affordable in price for a high quality Pinot Noir.
Entirely destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and organically certified with Bio-Gro NZ, this wine spends 11 months in barrels with zero new oak and it's all the better for it. Pure dark fruit flavours sit in a silky framework with spicy nuances and a freshness that leads the cherry, plum, wild berry flavours to a memorable long finish.
