A jewel in the capital's dining crown
Mitch Mclachlan is a man after my own heart when it comes to wine.
The first glass we share on a Monday evening in Wellington is Mumm Marlborough Brut Rosé. It's surprisingly good, putting Marlborough firmly in the category of high quality sparkling wine region, despite the fact that it's best known for aromatic white wines. This wine shows that Champagne Mumm's connection with the Southern Hemisphere is working well, from a quality stand-point, of making convincingly good traditional method sparkling wine. But it's top wines from far further south that Mclachlan is most enthused by, including Pegasus Bay Riesling from North Canterbury and Maude Pinot Noir from Central Otago.
As the General Manager of Rydges Wellington, Mclachlan has invited a handful of influencers and media, including yours truly, to taste a new menu at The Portlander; the popular restaurant at the Rydges Hotel. And popular it is. We are here on a Monday evening and the place is nearly packed, which belies the difficult economic environment that has beset so many hospitality venues in the capital city.
As invites go, the Portlander ' where meat meets mastery' was both alluring and slightly alarming as I am not the most carnivorous kid on the block but I'm always willing to give it a go and in this case, the food was superb. West coast whitebait fritters were followed by venison tartare; braised beef short rib was followed up by highlights of stuffed New Zealand porchetta, honey glazed baby carrots, portlander mash and broccolini... delicious traditional dishes which were executed with a modern twist.
The wine list featured those two of the best from the South Island; Maude from Central Otago and Pegasus Bay from North Canterbury, the latter being a favourite of Mclachlan, who describes himself and his team as incredibly passionate about New Zealand's food and beverage scene.
"Personally, I think it's one of the most underrated food and wine destinations in the world and we should be shouting that from the rooftops."
For a city that has had a well-publicised tough time of it, business-wise, over the past two years, Wellington remains home to hidden treasures that over deliver. The Portlander is one such jewel in the city's crown.
The Portlander is at 75 Featherston Street, Wellington and open seven days.
Five minutes with Mitch Mclachlan
How old is the Portlander and how long have you been here?
"The Portlander first opened in 2012. This is actually my second time working at Rydges Wellington and Portlander. I started my career here in hospitality, beginning in the bar and then working across various food and beverage roles, before heading overseas. I returned as the General Manager in June this year, which felt very full circle. It's great to be back and I'm excited about being part of the next chapter."
How often do you change the menu and is seasonal?
"We do run a seasonal menu that changes throughout the year to showcase the best local ingredients available, so we're always on the lookout for the best local meat, seafood and produce. Aotearoa is home to some of the world's best quality ingredients and we take immense pride in highlighting them."
What inspires your choices?
"Supporting local suppliers is a touchpoint across the board."
What’s the most popular dish on the menu?
"Everyone has their favourite but our steak selection is consistently one of the most popular choices. All of our beef is sourced from New Zealand - the product is so good. One of our biggest success stories has been the classic whitebait fritter. It's quintessentially Kiwi."
What's your recommendation for a wine and food pairing?
"The 2025 Pegasus Bay Riesling from North Canterbury is a fantastic choice and pairs beautifully with seafood. My pick of the reds would have to be the 2025 Ngā Waka Pinot Noir from Martinborough."
Declaration: I stayed at the Rydges Wellington as a guest on the evening of the Portlander's new menu launch.
