What's in a 'sub' region - a lot more than 'sub' sounds
Central Otago was once as famous for its rocky canyons and hair raising gravel roads as it now is for its Pinot Noir but whether it was driving or making wine in this dramatic mountainous landscape, it's a risky venture.
The most famous of the risky places was Skipper's Canyon and yes, I have been down there - several times - in a Land Rover, on a mini bus and in a car) but I sometimes think that making wine is even more challenging than the Skipper's (hire car companies will not insure you past a certain point).
Winemaking in Central relies on a combination of courage, frost-free springs and the ability to blend between 'sub regions' of this vastly varied landscape. The word 'sub' fails to convey to complexities of this majestic landscape and its outstandingly layered nuances. Which is exactly what I enjoyed about this wine of the week - a new release from the appropriately named Rockburn Wines of Central Otago. It's a blend of two different areas. Each contributes a highly valued but different quality to the wine. Parkburn brings more warmth and weight while Gibbston brings acidity, vibrant fruit-forward aromas and an earthy back palate. But don't take my word for it.
This bold new Pinot Noir shows what great Central Pinot is all about.
Wine of the week
2024 Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir RRP $49
"The flagship" wine from Rockburn winery, this wine is an impressive young new release and is a blend of two very different areas in Central Otago, namely, Parkburn (north of Cromwell and 85% of the grapes) and Gibbston Valley (one of the last areas to pick grapes each year and 15% of the blend). Each of these two areas brings weight and a suave elegance to this wine.
How does it taste? Full bodied, dry and integrated in taste with aromas of red and dark cherries, a note of cocoa, cedar and very subtle spice, which all lead into a core of seductively fleshy fruit forward appeal. Complex layers of aroma and taste unfold as the wine warms up in the glass and it evolves favourably over time - tasting more layered on day two.
If you want to enjoy this wine at its absolute best, decant it for an hour before enjoying - either into a large glass or a decanter.
Relatively widely available and as a flagship wine, a great entrée into the world of Rockburn of Central Otago.
