Where did the past 20 years go? The latest releases from Rockburn of Central Otago mark the 21st vintage of winemaker Malcolm Rees‑Francis, whose tenure has shaped Rockburn into one of the region’s most consistent wineries for quality and diversity but also span Central's journey from a new wine frontier into one of the world’s most respected cool climate wine regions.
Central is the most southerly major wine region on Earth. It has forged a global reputation in a few short decades for wines with purity of fruit, expression of place and a growing range of regions-within-the-region - which is exemplified in the best wines.
These new releases highlight the 2024 and 2025 vintages, but also include three longer-aged 2023 Pinot Noirs from the winery's top tier range. The long, cool 2024 season produced wines driven by aromatic lift and 2025 was a warmer year with richer, fuller fruit.
These new releases from Rockburn show two sides of Central: Parkburn at Pisa, north of Cromwell which is defined by dry, warm terraces and dusky soils and - the contrasting - Gibbston Valley‘Back Road’ vineyard. This is one of coolest and most elevated vineyard sites in the region, where long hang‑time produces brings earthy aromas and depth of flavour.
These wines are strong expressions of Central's diverse landscape and two white wines made from Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc also show the other side of Central. The Sauvignon has a twist; it's a fumé blanc and shines a new light on the old theme of oak-influenced Sauvignon.
Here’s what I’ve been drinking, tasting and enjoying this week.
Rockburn reviews
2024 Rockburn Central Otago Fumé Blanc RRP $42
This Fumé Blanc carries smoky aromas, layers of bright citrus and strong aromas of freshly picked herbs, all of which pay homage to Central's high sunshine hours and cool night temperatures. Rockburn’s Fumé balances freshness with depth and length. It's a wine that rewards a large glass and contemplation, along with a fresh sliver of goat's chèvre.
2025 Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Gris RRP $33
Textural Pinot Gris with weight and body along with fresh pear juice aromas and a hint of gentle spice. Central's hallmark freshness is a mark of the region's cool climate and ability to retain acidity, which adds longevity to wines such as this one. It drinks well now and can age favourably for five to six years.
2024 Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir RRP $49
The flagship wine from Rockburn, this Pinot is an impressive young new release and is a blend of two very different areas in Central Otago, namely, Parkburn (north of Cromwell and 85% of the grapes) and Gibbston Valley (one of the last areas to pick grapes each year and 15% of the blend). Each of these two areas brings weight and a suave elegance to this wine.
How does it taste? Full bodied, dry and integrated in taste with aromas of red and dark cherries, a note of cocoa, cedar and very subtle spice, which all lead into a core of seductively fleshy fruit forward appeal. Complex layers of aroma and taste unfold as the wine warms up in the glass and it evolves favourably over time - tasting more layered on day two.
If you want to enjoy this wine at its absolute best, decant it for an hour before enjoying - either into a large glass or a decanter.
Relatively widely available and a great entrée into the world of Rockburn of Central Otago.
2023 Rockburn The Art Central Otago Pinot Noir RRP $110
The Art is one of Central Otago’s most polished Pinot Noirs - and one of its most age-worthy wines, which will reward those with patience and the ability to drink something else for six or seven years - while waiting for it to come into its own. Aromas of ripe cherry, black tea and spice sit within a framework of finely tuned but firm tannins, which bring depth and power.
2024 Rockburn The Barrels Parkburn Central Otago Pinot Noir RRP $110
Parkburn’s sunny terraced vines bring ripe red fruit aromas to this wine and, layered with its wild thyme and savoury tones, it is a Pinot for the long haul. Power and tension are wrapped within a full bodied wine with a complex range of layered flavours from smoky barrel-derived notes through to pure fresh fruit depth. This is a wine for the cellar - think seven to eight years.
2024 Rockburn The Barrels Bunton Vineyard Gibbston Central Otago Pinot Noir RRP $110
The Barrels Bunton Vineyard Pinot Noir is a striking contrast to its Parkburn sibling. Gibbston is one of the coolest and highest altitudes of Central’s wine regions, both of which bring powerful floral, redcurrant and savoury aromas to this young wine. Delicate and finely poised on the palate now, this wine's power comes on its long fresh finish, which shows Gibbston's haunting purity and finesse. The Barrels Bunton Pinot Noir drinks well now but begs for time in the cellar for up to a decade, which will see it unfold layers of complexity.
